Stepping inside, you are transported to a parallel reality of rustic cosiness, created by the dozens of objects to which the owners have breathed new life by incorporating them into the interior and giving them a new purpose. Here, even the scent takes you back in time, with only the food reminding you that you aren’t dreaming up episodes from a past life. A large proportion of the customers are foreigners, and you’ll almost never find a table unless you’ve called ahead to book.